Is neryl acetate anti-aging ?
What does the latest research say about helichrysum italicum?

USES AND BENEFITS OF HELICHRYSUM ITALICUM OIL

Mainly used in cosmetics for its “anti-aging” properties. In Aromatherapy it is mainly used in the form of essential oil for its powerful anti-hematoma power. Helichrysum has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, antifungal and antibacterial properties.

An allrounder in the family first aid kit, used for bumps and bruises, wounds and scars, even older ones, apply diluted to all skin inflictions including acne and other inflammations. In Herzegovina where our immortelle grows it has been used in a well-known burn salve, treating both the burn quickly and leaving no scar, which has been used for generations and whose ingredients had been a family secret - till now.

DIFFERENT CHEMOTYPES - HELICHRYSUM

The Mediterranean basin is the home for helichrysum italicum which includes 3 chemotypes identified as:

Corsican helichrysum rich in neryl acetate but with a variable concentration of italidiones [1]

Italian helichrysum [2] [3] , variable in neryl acetate [4] , sometimes rich in italicene [5] though can have less italidiones

Balkan helichrysum, with a lower concentration of neryl acetate, often rich in italidiones and pinenes.

The variability of the chemical constituents of helichrysum have been attributed to geographical location, soil conditions, harvesting and climatic conditions [7].  This is especially true on our two plantations here we see a different result from our two plantations depending on the number of hours of sunlight the plant receives.

The Corsican chemotype with a high level of neryl acetate has been considered as superior to other variations. In “L'AROMATHERAPIE EXACTEMENT” Pierre Franchomme and Daniel Penoël say that italidiones are the crucial asset in the anti-hematoma action of essential oil.

 

Who has ever used helichrysum will have no doubt about its effectiveness, though science hasn’t proven it to a certainty why, even when the chemotypes are different?

Recently there have been studies of α-pinene and its anti-inflammatory properties [8] [9] as well as for its protective effect against loss of collagen and elastin, two molecules essential for the skin structure [6] . The latter could well be at the origin of the anti-hematoma and anti-aging effects of helichrysum oil or a synergy between the named constituents. It could thus preserve the firmness of the skin(anti-aging) and halt the damage linked to the inflammation that accompanies tissue trauma. The study in question indicates that Neryl acetate does not have these properties, which is an argument in favour of the Balkan helichrysum.

Bibliography

[1] Ange Bianchini Pierre Tomi Jean Costa Antoine François Bernardini (2001) - “Composition of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don fil subsp. Italicum essential oils from Corsica (France) ”Flavor and Fragrance Journal 16 (1): 30-34 · January 2001.

[2] Julien Paolini, Jean ‐ Marie Desjobert, Jean Costa, Antoine ‐ François Bernardini, Cinzia Buti Castellini, Pier ‐ Luigi Cioni, Guido Flamini, Ivano Morelli (2006) -  “Composition of essential oils of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don thread subsp. italicum from Tuscan archipelago islands ”  Flavor and Fragr J 21: 805–808.

[3] Leonardi M, Giovanelli S, Ambryszewska K, Ruffoni B, Cervelli C, Pistelli L, Flamini G, Pistelli L (2018) -  “Essential oil composition of six Helichrysum species grown in Italy.” Biochemical Systematics and Ecology. 79. 15-20. 10.1016 / j.bse.2018.04.014.

[4] Leonardi M, Ambryszewska KE, Melai B, Flamini G, Cioni PL, Parri F, Pistelli L. (2013) -  “Essential-oil composition of Helichrysum italicum (ROTH) G.DON ssp. italicum from Elba Island (Tuscany, Italy). ” Chem Biodivers. 2013 Mar; 10 (3): 343-55. doi: 10.1002 / cbdv.201200222.

[5] Emilia Mancini, Laura De Martino, Aurelio Marandino, Maria Rosa Scognamiglio, Vincenzo De Feo (2011) -  “Chemical Composition and Possible in Vitro Phytotoxic Activity of Helichrsyum italicum (Roth) Don ssp. Italicum ”  Molecules 2011, 16 (9), 7725-7735; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules16097725

[6] Fraternale D, Flamini G, Ascrizzi R (2019) - “In Vitro Anticollagenase and Antielastase Activities of Essential Oil of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum (Roth) G. Don. ” J Med Food. 2019 Jun 14. doi: 10.1089 / jmf.2019.0054.

[7] Ange Bianchini  François Santoni  Julien Paolini  Antoine‐François Bernardini  David Mouillot  Jean 2009 “Partitioning the Relative Contributions of Inorganic Plant Composition and Soil Characteristics to the Quality of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum (Roth) G. Don fil. Essential Oil” https://doi.org/10.1002/cbdv.200800328

[8] Zhou JY1, Tang FD, Mao GG, Bian RL. (2004) - “Effect of alpha-pinene on nuclear translocation of NF-kappa B in THP-1 cells.”Acta Pharmacol Sin. 2004 Apr; 25 (4):480-4.

[9] Kim DS, Lee HJ, Jeon YD, Han YH, Kee JY, Kim HJ, Shin HJ, Kang J, Lee BS, Kim SH, Kim SJ, Park SH, Choi BM, Park SJ, Um JY, Hong SH . (2015) - “Alpha-Pinene Exhibits Anti-Inflammatory Activity Through the Suppression of MAPKs and the NF-κB Pathway in Mouse Peritoneal Macrophages.” Am J Chin Med. 2015; 43 (4): 731-42. doi: 10.1142 / S0192415X15500457. Epub 2015 Jun 28